Make your own free website on Tripod.com

"LITTLE THING'S YOU MIGHT NOT KNOW"

"UNDER CONSTRUCTION"

Due to DEER SEASON.I will be for some antlers.

Now's a good time to refuel.Grab a drink, some munchies,and take your time and enjoy this site.


"COMING SOON"

Transmission
The AX-5 and BA 10/5 were used with the I4 and V6. The BA 10/5 was discontinued in 1989 and the AX-15 was used with the 4.0l I6.

Engine
The XJ came with the AMC 2.5L I4 engine standard and the GM2.8L V6 optionally until '86. The 4.0L I6 was introduced in 1987.

Transfer Case
The NP-207 was used until 1987,after it the NP-231 (or NV for New Venture) was used.
The NP-207 and NP-231 are the Command-Trac transfer cases.The other transfer cases will be added later.

Front Axle
The Dana 30 was used as the front axle in the XJ.

Rear Axle
The Dana 35c is the axle most commonly found in the rear of theXJ. The Dana 44 was optional in some models with the towing package.The XJ also appears once in awhile with a Chrysler 8.25" rear end.

More coming soon.

Check out the link's

MY HOME PAGE
PG.#2 of my site (MY ACTION SHOT'S)
PG.#3 of my site (MY TECH PAGE)
PG.#5 of my site (MY JEEP HUMOR PAGE)
PG.#6 of my site (MY links,JEEP history, & the rules of JEEP waving!)

Add Me! Is your poor Jeep just taking you back and forth to work everyday? Or maybe even the occasional weekend trip to the lake? If so, then it's about time you got out and experienced what your jeep was made for. OFF-ROADING! Now, I know what you might be thinking. "I paid way too much for my Jeep to be tearing it up off-road". Well,I'm not talking about going crazy with it, like jumping over rocks and running right over bushes and small trees.(for those of you who have brushguards). I'm talking about getting out, finding some good trails, or mud, and enjoying the capabilities of your 4x4.

Cherokee Lift Basics TIRES Without a lift you have two choices as I see it. You can run a 30x9.50 15 in an all-terrain tire or a P255 70R 15 in a street tire. Now my personal favorite is the 255 because it fills out the wheel well better than the 30 does. Lets face it, you are going to be limited to some extent with the type and volume of off-roading you can do with a stock setup. There are some fairly aggressive 235ís on the market but the 255 just looks better and gives you about the same clearance as the 30. With a 3-4 inch lift you can put 31x10.50 15ís on stock rims, this is what I have done. I believe that with a little less negative offset you could run 32ís but you would not have the off-road clearance necessary for proper articulation. Therefore, I suggest staying with the 31ís for 3-4 inch lifts. Now, some will disagree with me, but I think with the stock 4.0 and the stock drive train you should not go over 33í on the Cherokee. This is a personal opinion but I know others who would back me up on this. 33í will require a 5-6 inch lift and some fender trimming and flare relocation. I know a few guys who are running 33ís and love it. I may go to this in the future, but for now the 31ís are adequate for the type of off-roading I do. NOTE An additional note on larger tires. You should expect some rubbing on the lower control arms at full crank. I have put 40,000 miles on a set of BFG's with no problems from the additional rubbing. It's annoying when the lugs are thumping against the control arm, but not hazardous. LIFTS There are a number of lift kits on the market for the Cherokee. Rancho, Black Diamond, Tomken, Rough Country and Off-Road General Store, although Mark Hinkey at ORGS says that his is a compilation of parts rather than a kit. There are probably others, but these are the ones I know of. Each has its own merits, and flaws. I donít plan to go into the proís and conís of each lift. First and foremost, you should decide what your ultimate goal is. If you will be happy with 31ís and only plan on doing moderate off-roading, then a 3-4 inch lift will suffice. But if you ever plan to try to run 32ís or 33ís, get the 5-6 inch lift up front. The reason for this is that most of the lifts, other than the Tomken, do not offer an upgrade to 5-6 inch. Additionally, if you go with a 3-4 inch lift and decide later to go to 5-6 you will have to do a wholesale swap of most or all of the lift components. Tomken does offer an upgrade from their 3-4 inch lift, to their 5-6 inch lift that uses the 3-4 inch lift parts. I opted for the Rancho 3" lift and added an additional 1" spacer block in the rear. Now that I am older and wiser, I wish I had gone with a 5-6 lift. Of course hind sight is 20/20. What I will advocate in the 3" lift, is its capability for the daily driver. I am happy with my lift and it required no change to accommodate drive line angle. This was a plus for me and it kept my cost down, something very important with 2 kids and a mortgage. I went the down and dirt route with Rancho front springs, Rancho add-a-leafís and spacers in the back and Rancho 5000 shockís all around. I also added Energy Suspension urethane bushings and covers on the track bar and tie rod ends. Installation was fairly easy. My main suggestion here is to have a buddy help. You will be able to do 90% by yourself, but when it comes to getting the lower control armís back in place, you will need help. I will make one comment about the Rancho kit. Although a bit heavier in construction, I opted not to install their lower control arms. I have had no trouble with my lift by doing this. It saved some money at the time and I will most probably get the Tomken angled lower control arms anyhow. I think Tomkenís control arms are probably the best on the market, and with the angle give needed clearance. The basic lift really only consist of replacing the front springs and adding the rear add-a-leafís. All in all it is very easy to do if you are at all mechanically inclined. The only problem I ran into with the lift after putting the rear blockís in place, I found that the 5000ís were too short by about ĺ of an inch. They will install with the truck on the ground, but it would be a good idea to get either the 9000ís or a different shock that will accommodate the additional lift. So, whatí the bottom line? Well, first off, decide what you plan to use the lift for. If its just for looks then stay with the 3". The 3" is also good for moderate off-roading and on a daily commuter. If you plan to go for heavy off-roading or want to run 32-33ís, get the 5-6 inch lift up front, it will save you effort and cost. Make sure that you get shocks that will accommodate whatever you plan to do. Keep proper articulation of the tires in mind. You can run too big a tire on a small lift, it may work but as soon as you articulate the suspension, the tire will lock up on the wheel well. One last word of caution. With the 4 door, like mine, you need to keep in mind that with 33ís you will need to move the flare up. Due to the back door, your limited to about Ĺ inch of movement before you into the door. This may limit your tire selection. Whatever you do, keep in mind that any change will have an effect on your Cherokeeís overall performance and handling. Know your Cherokeeís capabilities before and after you do a lift, so that you wont overextend you or your Cherokeeís abilities.

The Fine Art of Winching or "Winchology" Certain dangers are inherent in off roading as with any other sport. Vehicle accidents (such as roll overs), equipment failures, and environmental conditions can all work against our trying to maintain 98.6 degrees (also know as life). Winching a stuck or disabled vehicle should be considered one of the inherent dangers associated with our sport. Educating yourself on, what I call, "Winchology" can greatly reduce the hazards associated with winching and minimize the strain placed on vehicle components. I am assuming you have read you winch owner's manual and have some knowledge of winching. This column reflects winch employment techniques I have developed based upon my study of current periodicals, corporate literature, and college physics. If you have a personal technique, or have dissenting technical views, I welcome dialog so lessons can be disseminated. Shortly after purchasing my first winch and snatch block I began to wonder where these tremendous forces were being applied that are able to free a stuck vehicle. (I will not digress into which winch to buy for your application. Four wheel drive magazines often compare winch capabilities since manufactures buy advertising space. I tend to go with the school of thought that says, "buy the biggest winch you can afford.") The manufacturer rated my winch at 8,000 lbs single line pull (i.e. running the line from my jeep directly to an anchor) when all the cable is spooled out to the last layer on the drum. Let me stop here and explain. Each time a new layer of cable is wrapped around the drum, the winch's pull capacity is reduced proportionally to the relative increase in drum diameter. To visualize this, see your drum as a certain diameter gear, say 2 inches. Using 5/16 inch cable, each time a new wrap starts, you have increased the "gear's" diameter 10/16 inch or .625 inch Dividing .625 by the gears original 2 inch diameter yields a 31% increase in gear size. This is a bad thing. Increasing gear size means less torque and effective pulling power. This is why manufacturers rate their winches with one spool on the drum and why you want the most cable off the drum to maximize your pulling capability. With this information tucked in the back of my mind, I returned to my most puzzling concern of using the snatch block to double the pulling power. The 5/6 inch cable supplied with the winch was rated at 9,000lbs, the winch can pull 8,000lbs, and using the snatch block gives the potential to pull 16,000lbs. Wait a minute. The cable is only good for 9,000lbs and I could be pulling 16,000lbs! Where is the 16,000lbs being applied? Figure 1 depicts a typical winch and snatch block rigging with load distribution. As you can see, all components attached to the anchor (tree) end must be capable of withstanding 16,000lbs of force. Your truck's front bumper/winch mount must also be able to withstand 16,000lbs if you attach the winch hook to a component tied to the winch mount. If in doubt, attach the winch hook to a point farther back on the frame. The snatch block configured in this manner creates a mechanical advantage (MI) equal to the output Force (Fo), over the input force (FI) or MI = Fo / FI. The MI is only applied if the winch hook is attached to your vehicle. If the winch hook were attached to another anchor, Fo and FI would equal 8,000lbs in our example. A snatch block employed in this manner serves to change the direction of the input force. Knowing how to get the most out of your winch and knowing where the load is applied, can mean the difference between a safe efficient rigging and a fatal accident. Note where the force is applied, and ensure those components have that working capacity. A good quality clevis will have the working load stamped on it; if yours does not, (it may say made in China and have no rating information) it's rating should be questioned. Naturally, the fewer components you include in your rigging, the less potential to have a weak link. Reducing the forces placed on your components can also eliminate potentially weak links. The winch mount may be a weak link you can protect. Lets say you are in a situation where you have a poor vehicle weight ratio (your truck is being dragged toward a vehicle you are trying to recover). Strapping your truck to a suitable anchor behind you or placing the front of the winch mount (not necessarily the bumper) against a tree/rock, can create a better weight ratio. however, both these techniques have damaging potential. If your front bumper/winch mount is not sufficiently strong or the vehicle shifts, you may damage the front of your vehicle. Anchoring your vehicle from behind while winching the heavier vehicle may damage the vehicle's frame. I am especially reluctant to perform this technique since my Cherokee has unibody construction (ugly thought isn't it). If you need to strap to a anchor behind you, consider running the strap under your truck and attaching it to the winch mount. In essence, you have mounted your winch to a tree using a strap. This will eliminate the force placed on the truck's chassis and reduce the force placed on the winch mount. So far, our winching examples have assumed a straight pull. What happens when you begin winching at angles? Simple (not) multiply FI (8,000lbs) times the Cosine of the angle to the anchor. For a 45 degree angle, that means 8,000 X .707 reducing your effective force to 5656lbs. Also, your winch mount was designed for straight pulls meaning it may not withstand the torsional forces applied when angle winching. Simply put, get as straight in line as possible with the anchor or stuck vehicle when winching. Large Tire Considerations To accommodate larger tires i.e., 33 x 12.50's on a Cherokee, it's sometimes necessary to open up the wheel wells by spreading the front and rear fender flares to accommodate the larger tires. This can be done by taking the flares off and relocating the flare bolt holes slightly and then trimming off the excess metal for better clearance. Keep in mind that you can't spread too far since the flares only open-up about one to one and a half inches. Some of the plastic wheel well liner must also be trimmed. Another tip on installing 33x12.50 tires on the Cherokee is the backspacing of the rims to get the proper clearance between the rear spring and the inside of the rear tires. It is usually necessary to go with a rim that has about 4 1/4 to 4 1/2 inches of backspacing. In my case I went with a 15x8 inch rim with 4 1/2 inches of backspacing (Alcoa brand). An added benefit of the 15x8 rim is the ballooning effect of the sidewalls which protects the rims somewhat during rock crawling. I'm running BFG mud terrain's and typically run 25 psi on the street and about 15 psi on the trail with good results.

This chart is courtesy of Glen at Summit Off-Road. Lift one tire off the ground until another tire lifts, then compare the distance you have lifted that tire to the green numbers on the chart. This gives you your RTI. Make sure you stop lifting as soon as another tire lifts even the slightest amount.



Automotive Recalls and Technical Service Bulletins for 1986 Jeep Truck Cherokee 4WD V6-173 2.8L VIN W 2-bbl. Bulletins for 1986 Jeep Truck Cherokee 4WD V6-173 2.8L VIN W 2-bbl Emissions Recalls TSB Number Issue Date TSB Title 1. 279T OCT 89 California Emissions Recall # 279T -- Ignition Timing General Recalls TSB Number Issue Date TSB Title 1. 733 SEP 97 Customer Satisfaction Notification #733-Brake Shift Int. Service Bulletins TSB Number Issue Date TSB Title 1. 241192 AUG 92 A/C Refrigerant Substitutes and Compatibillity Info. 2. ATRATB078 NOV 91 How To Use A Pressure Gauge - Automatic Trans. 3. 236291 SEP 91 Service Noise/Stiff Door Hinge Pin 4. 235991 JUL 91 Rattles/Leaks At Liftgate Glass 5. 085391 MAY 91 Instruction Sheets For Wiring Repair 6. 235491 APR 91 Outside Door Lock Cylinder Binding 7. 235291 FEB 91 Vehicle Color Variance Program 8. 075190 DEC 90 "Recycled" Engine Coolant CAN Cause Water Pump Seal Wear 9. ATRATB028 OCT 90 Engine Testing With A Vacuum Gauge - Auto Trans. 10. 235090 JUN 90 Outside Remote Mirror Will Not Adjust 11. 235890 JUN 90 Water Leaks From Vent Window 12. 235690 MAY 90 Retrofit Kits For Rear Shoulder Belt 13. 235190A MAR 90 Rear Window Washer Weeping 14. ATRATB9002006 FEB 90 Automatic Transmission Fluid 15. 236789 DEC 89 Rattle In the Liftgate Area 16. ATRATB8930 OCT 89 Automatic Transmission Math Part 2 17. ATRATB8927 SEP 89 20 Steps To successful Auto Transmission Repair 18. ATRATB8923 AUG 89 Automatic Transmission Math Formulas 19. 20E068 AUG 89 Suspension Spring Identification 20. 025189 APR 89 Suspension Jounce Bumper Noise In Cold Ambients 21. 235689 MAR 89 Pin-Stripe or Paint Damage Due to Window Washer 22. 235389 FEB 89 Cleaning of Soiled Cloth Seat Upholstery Procedure 23. 265389 FEB 89 Threadmaker GEL, and Sealant - Application and Use Instructions 24. 235488 DEC 88 Outer Front Door Panel Replacement/Rattle Potential 25. 025588 OCT 88 Popping Noise From Track Bar/Bracket and Torque Spec. Revisions 26. 025288 JUL 88 Right Front Axle Shaft Seal Installation 27. ATRATB8754 SEP 87 All Automatics - Front Bushing Wear 28. 44E410 SEP 87 No Shift Condition 29. ATRATB8748 AUG 87 Metal Sealing Rings - Automatic Transmissions 30. 39E372 AUG 87 Wheel Alignment Specification Revision 31. 55E230 APR 87 New Front Wheel Bearing Replacement Procedures 32. 24E182 MAR 87 Power Steering Gear Noise 33. 23E174 JAN 87 New Shift Lever Boot For Older Models 34. 001112 OCT 86 Correction to the Electrical Troubleshooting Manual 35. 001108 OCT 86 Evaporator Freeze-Up or Water Leak 36. 1E116 OCT 86 Service Diagnosis Chart-Additional Procedure 37. 001088 SEP 86 Cruise Control/Turn Signal/Wiper Lever Service 38. 7E096 SEP 86 Electric Sideview Mirror Glass Replacement 39. ATRASIL8618 AUG 86 1986 RWD Transmission Changes 40. 3E086 AUG 86 Engine Oil Leak 41. 48E074 AUG 86 New Shift Lever Installation Tool 42. 4E078 AUG 86 Oil Filter Adapter Leak 43. 6E001044 JUN 86 Liftgate Cracking At Latch Area 44. 001026 JUN 86 V-6 Engine Surge 45. 320885 MAY 86 1986 System Faults Correction 46. 001030 MAY 86 Exhaust Pipe Rattle 47. 18E001022 MAY 86 Inner Seal Application For Rear Axle Shaft 48. 000988 APR 86 Clunking Noise When Braking Application 49. 000994 APR 86 Damaged or Noisy Front Track Bar 50. 000906 APR 86 Diagnostic Code 34 Flashing (Vacuum Sensor Circuit) 51. 45E000984 APR 86 Transfer Case Not Engaging Front Axles 52. 5E000998 APR 86 Water Runout Tube For Rear Door 53. 000968 FEB 86 Pulling Dented Panels 54. 000896 JAN 86 Checking For 4WD Axle Ratios During P.D.I. 55. 000928 JAN 86 Door Noise - Missing Door Check Pin 56. 7E000833 JAN 86 Horn Failure/Relocation 57. 11E000892 JAN 86 Speedometer Cable Noise or Needle Flutter 58. 2E000926 JAN 86 Sunroof Service 59. 2E000900 DEC 85 New Main Bearing Journals In Dimensions 60. 000878 NOV 85 Excessive Air Pump Noise At Idle 61. 000816 OCT 85 Altitude Performance Adjustments




Software Search